Anna Adventures 2009

The best thing ever just happened- my little sister, the one and only Anna Markowitz, came to visit me for 10 days! We had countless adventures and she fit in remarkably, like a seasoned traveler (though this was her first time out of the US). Her flight was scheduled to leave Saturday, but she couldn't bear such an early end to the trip. so she rearranged in order to stay until this morning.

Here's some of the stuff that we did:

For her first night in Rabat, some friends came over to light the shisha coals and make their introductions. We chatted and ransacked the bags of goodies my mule schlepped for me from America, and everyone enjoyed our matching Sahawari robes as Anna introduced me to the "stanky leg" dance on youtube. We just couldn't contain our excitement!

We spent our first weekend in Marrakesh where we shopped the colorful souks, rode around in a horse-drawn carriage, were bathed and massaged at a fancy hammam, watched street performers in the famous Jmaa Fna, and made friends with the guys working at a food stand in the busy nighttime square. Although surprised by some things (like the carriage driver reeling around to crack his whip at some little boys trying to jump on the back of our wagon), Anna was remarkably at ease and ready for anything. Our hotel was right on the Jmaa Fna, cheap but decent and the manager remembered me from last time so he gave us a discount. I think almost every meal we ate was overlooking the square.

Our new food-stall friends (Hicham, Said, AbdrAhim and Samira) invited us to join them the next day for a trip to the countryside, and we were pleasantly surprised to find that at the end of the grand taxi ride was a FANTASIA! So Anna and I spent one glorious day in Temsloht watching teams of men on horseback compete to fire their guns at the same time while galloping at full speed. Plus the town had a festival surrounding the event, so we had lots of live music, delicious grilled meat, carnival rides (we just watched), and even bonus bathroom breaks in a construction site nearby. Our hosts were incredible and introduced us to several family members who participated in the fantasia and lived in the area. Many a photo and video to comemorate, plus infinite invitations to return to Marrakesh and eat at food stall number 15.

The Marrakshi part of our journey came to and end on Wednesday, when we ventured back to Rabat so I could attend two work events that evening and the next morning. Anna enjoyed her first taste of the Atlantic Ocean and we spent the next days checking out the old medina and the oudaya, having dinner with friends and coffee with my teacher's family, dancing at a Congoleez bar, meeting my old host family, going to the hammam, hanging out with Jess, and going on a "wild cous hunt" (couldn't find any couscous on Friday, it was weird...).

Anna experienced a number of firsts for her life on this trip, one of which was laying on the beach. My friend Najib knew we wanted to sport our bikinis and get some sun, so he invited us to stay at his brother's beach house in Skhirat, about 40 minutes south of Rabat. Although the house had some unexpected downfalls since it hadn't been attended in over a year (bugs, walls falling down), it was BEAUTIFUL and very very comfortable. We had a relaxing 24 hours in the sun and chatting around the house.

All good times must come to an end eventually, and with a tear in our eyes we left Rabat for Casablanca last night. We were pleased to meet up with another smiling host, another Fulbrighter and our distant cousin by marriage, Emily. After dinner we made our way to Emily's home to get some sleep before the impending morning goodbyes.

All in all, we rode in trains, buses and taxis (grand and petit), ate tagine of lamb, chicken and beef, dined on fancy restaurant couscous and festival-grilled meat thrown on the table, made fabulous new friends (including a traveling Gnawa band) and met up with old friend (american and moroccan), and generally had the best time ever. See the smiling faces in the photos if you want a second opinion.

This was pretty much the pinnacle of my time in Morocco so far. Not just because I got to spend some quality time with one of my favorite people in the history of the earth, but because having Anna here solidified in my conscience how I got here and what I'm doing with my time in Morocco. Hamdullilah for Anna Markowitz and Morocco and for all the people who brought them both to me.

And yes, in the photo at the very top I am wearing a jilaba made entirely out of sequins. Found it in a used clothing souk in Marrakesh. This place just knows me.

Saharawia

I have a new favorite place on earth: a little town in the Sahara, about 60 km from Algeria, called M'hamid. Jess and I took a long weekend and found our way via 20 hours of bus travel through the mountains so we could see a music festival in the desert. Rather than even try to explain the spiritual repercussions of our journey, I'll post these photos so you can see for yourself.

The trip included 12 hours on a bus from Marrakesh on curvey (treacherous?) mountain roads. A new form of gorgeous every minute.
An example of the small towns we passed en route from Marrakesh to Ouarzazate and then to Zagora and finally M'hamid.
Old town M'hamid

Jess and I in the old part of M'hamid

Our new brothers in M'hamid were so welcoming and eager to show us Moroccan hospitality. They taught us more Arabic and showed us great kindness, including this "Saharawi scarving" in the desert to induct us into the group.
Our new friends drove us around to see the sights, including some camel stalls.

During one stop while we gathered gear to deliver to a nomad tent 2 hours farther into the desert, a group of boys became fascinated with Jess and me. We had fun chatting and doing somersaults before heading off to check on a camel with a bum foot.

Omar the Great: he was our main guide throughout our stay and is truly our brother now. We had tea with his family who decorated us with henna, rode around in the back of trucks, shared meals and moonlit desert nights by a fire. He was our right hand.

Of course, my favorite part was playing frisbee with Omar and Ibrahim at the camp! We slept at this Saharawi camp out in the dunes and enjoyed breakfast with the guys each day. On this particular occasion, we followed breakfast with some disc throwing. They were great players!

Sprinting for the disc during Nomad frisbee.

Needless to say, I will be back in M'hamid sooner than later. The trip is long (20 hours from Rabat) but totally 100% worth it. And now I have brothers waiting for me to welcome me with breezy, blue, wide open arms.